Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build [Forums - SCAudio Concepts PROJECTS]

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Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Basically here is my design...

I will be using 1" MDF. The size of the enclosure will be 20x23x34. The volume before displacement is 7.0 cu. ft. Volume after displacement is 6.025 cu. ft. This enclosure will be ported. The ports will be (3)3"x20.8". This enclosure is designed to handle 1024 watts and will use 2 of the RE SE12 D4 subwoofers. The subs displace 0.15 cu. ft. each. The ports displace 0.11345 cu.ft. each. I have included the bassbox 6 sheet for everyone to look at. The design should produce 120+ db of bass with the wattage provided to it.

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Posted on: 2/6 9:33

Edited by webmaster on 2010/2/7 14:34:53
Edited by webmaster on 2010/2/7 14:37:37
Edited by webmaster on 2010/2/7 14:49:24
Edited by webmaster on 2010/2/7 14:52:12
Edited by talunceford on 2010/2/8 16:53:41
Edited by talunceford on 2010/2/8 16:54:36
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Updated Renders, Progress...
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Construction started today at lunch. I have nearly all the major cuts done. 1" MDF is some HEAVY stuff! Thanks to my buddy James for helping out! I also have a few updated renders of the enclosure with the new bracing design. Here they are.

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Posted on: 2/9 14:37
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Progress
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Well, here are some pics of the port support. This is without a doubt the most complex piece that this build has in it.  It took me a couple hours to complete the support, but I think it turned out great. Not a whole lot of time to work on it today, but I have Monday off, so I will make some serious progress then.



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Posted on: 2/13 14:14
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Well, I made some good progress on the enclosure today. I made some design changes (cosmetic) and I think that they were worth the extra effort. I have to still assemble the amp enclosure and cut out the back port holes and cut out the area where the amp will reside. The pics you see below are of the enclosure resting on its top. I also included a couple new renders that I made today before construction began.

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Posted on: 2/15 22:27
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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More work done today. I got the table top done, the enclosure feet done in hardwood, and got a couple of the inside angle parts installed. I also got the amp enclosure done. I started out to get the ports flared, but time ran out. I am going to try the technique described on www.subwoofer-builder.com. We will see! I still have to cut the back and install the amp enclosure as well as cut the port holes for the back. I am using schedule 40 pvc for the port tubes. Flaring the ports will be interesting for sure. We will see how that goes. I've included some pics of the work done today.

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Posted on: 2/20 22:35

Edited by talunceford on 2010/2/21 9:40:29
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Hey all,

More progress on the build. I actually worked on it some last night, but the camera was dead so no pics last night. The enclosure construction is pretty much DONE! Just a bit of sanding, some body filler on some of the seams and the screw holes, which I am sure will happen on Saturday. I heated some of my schedule 40 pipe tonight to see how pliable it is when its heated with a heat gun, and I was surprised. It will mold just fine. I have to buy another hole saw though... ugh.... Anyway, here are the construction pics from both last night and tonight's work.

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Posted on: 2/25 23:19
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Well, not a whole lot of work was done today. I DID however get a couple ports made. Quite a few ports were ruined in the process LOL! The process is pretty difficult, to say the least. By far the toughest part of the build. The ports take LOTS of patience and an extra set of hands.

The process starts out like this.

I heat the pipe in about 1" sections, no more than that. Once it is to a pliable state, put it on the mold. This is where it gets tricky. You need to put quite a bit of weight on top of the pipe to get it to flare, but the key is giving it a twist while applying the downward force. By doing this, you will cause the bottom lip to fold outward, which is what you want, especially with schedule 40 pipe. If you do not perform the twist, the lip will fold in on itself, which is BAD. Once you have the lip (pipe wall) started properly, you just keep heating in about 1" sections, trying all the while not to heat the vertical portion of the pipe very much. If this happens, it will cause it to bulge outward, which is BAD! I ended up using a 1/2" radius for the mold and it worked out perfectly. Just keep applying pressure until you reach the outer diameter that you are wanting. I chose, 4 7/8". Also too, don't hold the heat gun on the lip too long or it will cause it to split. You want the plastic hot, but not too hot. Here are the pics.

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Posted on: 2/27 19:01
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Here is the equipment.... no pics of the enclosure as of yet.... still lotsa work to do yet on the box itself. Was gone a couple days this week to a school board meeting in OKC, so there went two evenings of work time. Anyway......


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Posted on: 3/5 22:17
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Well, more work done today.  Most of the work was concentrated on the port construction.  One thing learned today is that pipe clamps work the best for compressing the heated pipe.  Also too, if you get a bulge in the pipe, stop, pull the pipe off, reheat and start over.  The bulge will go away if you reheat the pipe.  I had my dad take some pics of me performing a flare to show you guys how the process goes.  I also included some pics of the mold itself.

One of the other items installed today was the neutronix connection.  It is a pro-audio connection for power amps, which works out great for the passthrough connection into the enclosure from the amp itself.  I ordered it from parts express.

I painted the bottom trim board as well.  I wasn't completely satisfied with the finish of it.  Some blemishes can be seen.  I think I will sand those areas down some more, add some filler and re-paint it.

I also test fit all of the components to make sure that they fit properly.  Which they did.  The one major problem that I came across was mounting the amp.  When I attached the amp box to the enclosure itself, I drilled my mount holes in the EXACT spot that the amp needed.  So I had to chip out the bondo, remove the screws, redrill new holes and replace the screws.  Once I did that, the amp fit perfect.  All the holes already drilled of course LOL! 

Anyway, that is all I can think of ATM.  If I think of anything else, I will post it.  Enjoy the pics.


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Posted on: 3/6 17:50

Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 7:58:48
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:02:29
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:05:05
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:05:59
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:09:08
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:09:41
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:10:14
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:13:30
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:14:20
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:14:54
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:17:12
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:17:40
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:20:07
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:20:58
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:21:22
Edited by talunceford on 2010/3/7 8:25:31
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Re: Dual 12" RE SE12 D4 Home Theater Sub Build
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Hello All!



Today was a very productive day in that, it finally came to life! I will get to the details in a bit. Well, my buddy James and I worked on the sub pretty much all day long. We got all of the ports done, and the screw(pipe) clamps worked great, just like we hoped. Just about everything is ready to go on the box. By saying that I mean I am just about ready to apply veneer. I still have to do some work to the peanut board. I applyed some bondo to the routered edge of the peanut board and still have to fine sand it, primer it and paint it. When I do that, I will also shoot the box as well. I included some pics of all the work done today. Once the speaker wire was completed, James and I mounted the speakers in the box. We mounted the amp and made all of the necessary connections. The speakers are wired in series (dual 4 ohm) to get an 8 ohm load. Both speakers are then wired into a parallel connection to the amp to get a 4 ohm load. Each speaker will theoretically be receiving 512 watts. The speakers are rated at 600 watts RMS. Perfect. Once everything was mounted and wired we hooked up my Blackberry via a 1/8" to RCA adapter cable. Here is where it gets NASTY!!!... In a good way....



The sub hits like a sledgehammer... at ALL frequencies! The lower the better. You set the crossover at 40hz and it is scary how low it gets. At one point I was playing some Opeth (yeah, I'm a metal head). The song being "Beneath The Mire". The reason I like this song is because it has some very articulated double kick drum work, that and being a drummer myself, I love it. My dad was standing out on his back porch about 150 feet away from the shed and he thought there was a heli flying over. Now some of you might think, "oh thats not that great" you also have to realize too that the sub was being played in a 30x40 shed, 150 feet away...... Yeah, pretty incredible for 2 12's. One note, this box plays flat, and there were no dead spots in frequency reproduction that I could audibly hear. Like I said before, the lower the box played, the better it sounded. Makes me feel really good about my design.



The acoustic foam that I bought is WELL WORTH IT!!! Man that stuff works phenomenally! It tightened the sound of the box up SIGNIFICANTLY. Not boomy at all. Before the foam it sounded like it was very boomy, open and had some noticeable reverb in the box. After applying the foam, it was GONE! Buy the stuff, it works wonders. You can buy it at parts express. Just do a search for acoustic foam. I bought the 1 1/2" stuff. Comes in 24"x18" sheets. Eight sheets completed the box.





CONSTRUCTION NOTE:
Make sure to let the epoxy dry completely (24hrs) before mounting speakers. When we were removing the speakers, one of the mounting nuts (T-nuts), broke lose from the wood. It took dang near an hour to remove the nut.



Ok, I'm beat, I can't think of a whole lot more ATM. I will post more if I think about it. Next weekend I will try to finish up the peanut board and start on the veneer.



Here are the pics!



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Posted on: 3/13 21:44
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